1. Inspect your log home once a year.
A log home needs a visual inspection at least once a year. The sun’s UV rays break down the lignin in wood cells, weakening the fibers and causing cracks and weathering. You’ll want to check for signs of drying wood, aging, and any pests that might want to make your home a snug hideaway.
Be sure to watch out for these:
- Landscaping that’s too tall or too close to the home;
- Faded, discolored, or damaged finish to your logs;
- Stains or darker spots that may indicate mold or a fungus that uses living sapwood for nourishment;
- Green moss or algae;
- Damaged wood from hanging outdoor fixtures, such as a hook for a garden hose;
- Mud tubes from termites;
- Sawdust, pinholes, or frass from carpenter ants
- Gaps between the logs that allow water, air, bugs, mice, or bats to infiltrate; and
- Upward-facing cracks — called checks — in your logs (although part of the natural drying process, checks that aren’t sealed can trap water and cause rot)
2. Wash the exterior of your log home with a gentle soap.
Regular cleaning of your log home exterior can prevent the need for future repairs. Plus, if your stain needs refreshing or a topcoat, it’s better to start with a surface that’s clean of dirt, pollen, spider webs, bird droppings, mold, and other grime.
Even new wood needs cleaning and conditioning because of mill glaze, a glossy type of film that develops on milled lumber, or from being out in the elements. Start at the bottom of an area where you can work for 20 to 30 minutes at a time and gently apply the suds with a long-handled soft-bristle brush or broom, letting the soap do the work.
Then rinse from the top down with a low-pressure garden hose or a pressure washer with a low-pressure nozzle. A washer with 2,500 to 3,000 PSI with an output of two to three gallons per minute and a 15-degree fan-tip nozzle is recommended.
3. Remove stains, mold, and mildew.
Log cabins are prone to mold and mildew growth, especially without good air circulation around the exterior. One way to remove stains and restore the wood to its natural color is with a biodegradable percarbonate-based cleaner, after you wash your logs. An alternative for removing mold or mildew is this mixture:
- 1 cup trisodium phosphate or detergent without ammonia
- 1 quart of household bleach
- 3 quarts of warm water
Wear goggles and rubber gloves and apply the solution to the affected area with a hand-pump garden sprayer. Allow it to set for 5-10 minutes, then pressure rinse thoroughly with clean water. Chlorine left on wood will damage any coatings applied over it.
4. How to test whether your cabin needs a new topcoat.
Check the condition of your stain, preferably after rainfall or after you’ve washed the home’s exterior. Does any water bead or sheet away? If so, the stain or topcoat is in good shape. If the water darkens the wood, the topcoat is likely gone.
Once the house is dry, check if it needs stain or topcoat by using masking tape. Apply a piece to one of the logs, make sure it’s stuck firm, and then pull it off. If you notice about 40% to 50% of the tape covered with finish, then you need to re-stain, Murdock says.
5. Tips for effective staining
- Before applying any stain or topcoat, test it first in a small area (such as two square feet) because the color will change after it dries.
The Log Home Store recommends different types of stains. Each requires different prep and application methods and drying time to reach its true color. - Mix stain or topcoat every 15 to 20 minutes, preferably with a tool such as a mixing paddle for your drill to ensure even coverage.
To keep color coats consistent as you use up containers, “box” the containers throughout the application. In other words, when you have about one-quarter left in the first container, open the next and pour one-quarter of the new container into the old one. Continue with the mixed stain, then repeat. - Always work where there’s a natural break, such as on one wall at a time, and move completely across an entire log.
Use an airless sprayer, such as the Wagner Twin Stroke Piston Pump. If you ask a friend to brush behind you with a soft brush until the stain is thin, you’ll have no lap marks, Murdock advises. If you’re using a ladder for high places, skip that log where the ladder touches and do the rest of the wall first, Murdock adds. Once the rest of the wall dries, go back and stain or coat the log where the ladder was to avoid any ladder marks or unevenness.
6. Be diligent about pest control
With any wood-based home, catching pests in time can stop excessive decay. Long-horned beetles, carpenter bees, and termites love log homes, but bed bugs, flies, borers, spiders, squirrels, chipmunks, and even woodpeckers also can leave their mark.
If you treat your log home with borate — a natural chemical compound of oxygen and boron — you likely don’t need to inspect the wood as often for signs of pests.
Listen for any strange noises from beneath the floor, on the ceiling, or inside the walls. Depending on the size and level of infestation, you can fumigate a cabin on your own, but if you find this difficult, schedule an inspection and treatment with a professional exterminator.
Seal and fix cracks and openings to keep pests at bay. In addition, cover all food and tuck it away in the fridge or other storage containers, just like when you’re camping. Clean all garbage bins regularly to remove any food scents that can attract bugs or small animals.